話說從前~臺灣米粉第一鍋
關於米粉的起源,相傳是在距今大約1千6百多年前魏晉南北朝時期,因「五胡亂華」胡人遊牧部落侵擾華北地區,當時居住在華北的漢人南遷至閩浙一帶;吃慣麵條的華北人南遷後就近取材,把華南地區盛產的稻米作成了「米麵條」,也就是現在的「水粉」,因為十分的美味且烹煮快速,很快就拓展開來成為流傳至今廣受歡迎的著名美食。
臺灣米粉的起源,是由老鍋米粉的渡台先祖郭乾兄弟帶著郭泉等四個小孩,在清朝末年1858年從大陸福建惠安引進台灣,當時郭氏兄弟由淡水登陸,再遷居至新竹務農種稻,發現新竹的風很強勁,適合風乾米粉,於是開始在農餘閒暇時製作米粉,因為風味極佳,成為當時宴客的時髦好料,市場需求量大增,吸引了附近農民的爭相學習,因為在當時,8斤白米可以做成7斤米粉,而5斤米粉可以換8斤白米,在耕地產量有限的時代,是一門不錯的生意,成為當時新竹農戶的重要副業。
日治時期後期,有了柴油發動機及馬達動力的米粉車,可以把米粉壓得更細,細米粉因不宜水煮,而改用蒸氣炊熟,稱為「炊粉」,有別於「水粉」較粗且需經水煮,含水量高,風乾時間長,炊粉的含水量低,乾燥速度快,烹調風味佳,很快的成為新竹米粉的主流。
1960年以前,新竹大南勢聚落周圍,仍是一大片水田,豐富的稻米生產,配合客雅溪取水方便,及新竹地區特有的季風,集結了製作米粉的三大需要,使得大南勢聚落成為製造米粉的最佳地區,在那時期大大小小的米粉工廠估計有一百多家,如此高的密集度,使大南勢聚落有了「米粉寮」的稱號。
彎彎曲曲的客雅溪,溪埔地形平坦寬濶,溪埔地上的沙石受熱易乾,配合新竹地理季風,成為極佳的晒場,是米粉產業聚集此地的主要原因;老鍋米粉先祖郭家祖厝位於大南勢「間尾仔」這一帶,是「米粉寮」的起點,後來陸續有更多跟郭家習得製作米粉技術的居民搬到「土窟啦」,再一路隨著客雅溪彎延的河道拓展開來,米粉寮的範圍才含蓋彎潭、延平路以北等地,整個大南勢也成為新竹米粉的重鎮。
Taiwan’s Rice Noodles Began from the 150 Year-Old Old Pot
The winding Keya riverside has been irrigating the racks of rice noodles made with hard work and sweat for over the past century, while the terrain-induced monsoon takes away the moisture of the rice noodles, leaving behind the unique taste which accomplished the Hsinchu rice noodles, a good taste of Taiwan!
The origin of Taiwanese rice noodles began from the Old Pot Rice Noodles, which was introduced to Taiwan when ancestor Chien Kuo with four children including Chuan Kuo came to settle in Taiwan from Hui’an, Fujian, China in 1858; it was discovered that the Hsinchu region abounds in rice production, together with the convenience of access to water from the Keya River, as well as the unique monsoon of the Hsinchu region, which build up the three main requirements for producing rice noodles, hence he began to produce rice noodles when taking breaks from farming, which became a popular dish for entertaining guests at banquets back then due to the excellent taste, therefore he transformed to become a professional rice noodles manufacturer, which initiated the centennial glory of Taiwan’s Hsinchu rice noodles for over the past century.